Parts:

Parts Lists and Sources:

DigiKey:

Allcorp: (easiest-to-install IR receiver - external mount)

Jameco:

Philips:
A small IR module (smaller than either of the other two options) is available from Phillips, replacement part # 483531057426. It fits much better than the Jameco module. The Vcc and Data pins will need to be switched. Pringle Electronic Distributors sells this part but they are not really set up for direct sales. They usually just supply electronics stores, but you can give them a try.

Pringle Electronic Dist Inc
1021 N Broadway
Everett, WA 98201
(425) 258-6161

Parts Notes:

IR Receiver Notes:

Using a Philips Pronto remote control, the Pronto Edit Software, and the “Pronto learned code display format document“, I found that the IR carrier frequency used by DishNetwork remote controls is 57.6 kHz. This is the optimum IR receiver frequency, however, other lower frequency receivers have proven to work just as well.

• DigiKey carries an IR receiver that can be adapted for this application. The DigiKey IR receiver is listed at 56.8 kHz, which is about the Dish remote uses. It has been verified that this IR receiver does work and that the pins are correctly oriented, requiring no lead switching.
• NOTE: The direct replacement, top-look receiver is no longer available from DigiKey. However, a corresponding side-look receiver is available. You must bend the leads with needle-nose pliers to convert the side-look to a top-look configuration.
• When I performed my first upfit, I ordered all of the parts from All Electronics Corporation ( http://www.allcorp.com / 1-800-826-5432 ). The IRD-6 IR receiver they sell is too large to fit internally in the receiver, even when removed from the plastic housing. I left mine in the plastic housing and mounted it externally as opposed to drilling a hole in the face of the satellite receiver. Another receiver that they sell, the IRD-7, is small enough for internal mounting but it does not have the correct pin orientation.
• I have been told that Jameco ( http://www.jameco.com / 1-800-831-4242 ) sells an IR receiver which is close to the correct size for internal mounting but has the 5V and data out pins switched.
• The IR receiver that Radio Shack sells is not 100% reliable in this application. It may or may not work for you; most people report poor range.
• The IR receiver installed at the factory is a Sharp GP1U27X. This is “generic” version that can use about any remote carrier frequency (it has a band pass center frequency of 40 kHz). For a slight increase in IR remote control range with EchoStar products, I would suggest the Sharp GP1U277X, but this part has proven to be impossible to find. It is identical except for having a band pass center frequency of 56.8 kHz, which is a closer match for the IR carrier frequency used by the remote control. I would assume the sales volume on the 277X is much lower than the 27X so it will probably cost a few pennies more if you can find them. The increased cost and low volume is most likely why EchoStar doesn’t use the 277X. I don’t know where to purchase either part in a small quantity but you can find a listing of Sharp distributors at http://www.sharpmeg.com/sharp/sales.html. The Adobe Acrobat file from the Sharp website detailing their IR receivers is available here.

Resistor Notes: All resistors can be either 1/4 or 1/2 watt.

Transistor Notes: Some aliases for the PN2907 transistor are MPS2907, 2N2907, ECG159, and NTE159. A 2N2907A transistor with a TO-18 metal case can also be used; as always, the metal tab on the side of the case denotes the emitter (labeled as “E” in the circuit diagram at the bottom of the page) and will point toward the IR receiver when installed on circuit board style A.

Capacitor Notes: As long as the voltage rating on the capacitor is greater that 5V, you’re okay. It doesn’t have to be specifically 16V. Keep in mind, however, that the larger the voltage rating for a electrolytic capacitor, the larger the physical size. If the capacitor is too tall, you will have problems snapping the daughter card back into the front panel.

Recommended tools:

• Philips screwdriver.
• Vice grips -or- drill and small drill bits -or- hack saw -or- a 0.035-inch thick piece of metal such a feeler gauge (for gaining access to the inside of the receiver)
• Soldering iron and solder (any soldering iron will work, I really like the 40 watt unit I purchased from AllCorp.com. The small extension tip I ordered makes the soldering easier. Also, I recommend using the smallest diameter/gage of solder you can find.)
• Wire cutters (for snipping off leads)
• Needle-nose pliers (for bending leads)
• De-soldering iron, de-solder wick / braid, or de-solder bulb / pump (optional, usually not needed)
• Multi-meter / Ohm-meter (optional but highly recommended for circuit continuity checking)

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