Programming Receiver:

(NOTE: Model 5000 and most 2000 receivers do not require this programming)To tell the satellite receiver to look for an IR signal, you will need to activate IR in the satellite receiver software. The UHF portion of the remote will continue to operate as normal, you’re just adding the IR. Using your UHF remote (or front panel buttons on the receiver), power on the receiver and enter the following key sequence:

Menu
6 (”System Setup” menu item)
1 (”Installation” menu item)
3 (”System Info” menu item)

This will bring you to a screen showing specific system info. From this screen, you will activate the IR by pressing the following key sequence:

Info
Browse (Right arrow button)
Theme (Left arrow button)

The screen will redraw and the letters “IR” will appear next to the Remote Address number.

Programming Remote:

If you will be using a pre-programmed universal remote, make sure your remote address is set to 1. If you are using a programmable remote control, it can learn the codes from the original remote control for any remote address. To change the remote control address:

Press the Mode button until the remote is in the SAT mode. Press the Address button once (the SAT mode light will start flashing). Use the numeric key to enter an address between 1 and 15 (do not put a 0 in front of single-digit addresses; 1 is the default remote address). The SAT mode light will stop flashing and stay lit. Press the Address button again to save the change to the remote control. If you entered a valid remote address, the SAT mode light will blink 3 times. Make sure the satellite receiver is Powered-off. If not, power the satellite receiver off and wait 15 seconds. Press the Info button on the front of the satellite receiver. This will bring up the “Important System Information” menu. Press the red Record button on the remote. The screen will update and the “remote address” listed on the screen will change to the new remote address of the remote control. Alternative Method: 1) Remove the Dish Network Card 2) Wait for the System Information screen to come up 3) Hold down the “SAT” button on the remote until all four buttons light red. 4) Hit ‘1′-’#'-’RECORD’ in sequence on the remote control 5) You should see the “Remote Address” change on screen to 1 6) Re-insert the Dish Network Card

Done. Your 4000 is now IR-capable. The same key sequence disables IR. A memory dump reset will also cause the receiver to revert to UHF-only.Reassemble the receiver and enjoy.

Universal Remotes:

• One-For-All universal remotes use code 775. The RCA Universal Custom 8 Remote uses code 0792. For both, be sure to set the satellite receiver to remote address 1. One For All also has codes for remote addresses 2 and 3: 1170 and 1171.
• Not all learning remotes can actually learn the 57 kHz carrier frequency of the Dish remote control. Some recommended remotes, in order of increasing price, are:
  • Radio Shack 15-2116 by One-For-All (learning, backlight, $30 at Radio Shack)
  • Philips Pronto (mail-order, about $300)
  • See my Universal Remote page for more details.
• I encourage you to investigate these and other remotes at RemoteCentral.com.

Oh no! I messed something up and it doesn’t work!:

If you are having problems with the upfit, the best way to check your component installation is to use a ohm meter to check the solder joints. If the meter has a continuity mode, use it and you will hear a beep when a circuit passes the continuity test.

• Place one cable of the ohm meter on a component lead
• Look at the back of the board and find another component on the same trace
• Put the cable of the ohm test lead on the lead of the second component. where the trace
• The resistance should be very low (less than 2 ohms). Remember, you are only checking the resistance of the solder connections, not of the component.
• Be sure to make good contact between the test cable of the ohm meter and the component lead; poor contact will give inaccurate (high) resistance values.
• Note: you also need to make sure you don’t have any short circuits between components. Make sure there isn’t continuity were there shouldn’t be.
• Make sure the components are in the proper orientation.

If you are unable to identify any problems, or if you did something stupid like short-out the front panel to the case while testing, there is one last option. It has worked just fine for me but proceed at your own risk; this isn’t exactly the intended circuit.

The output of the IR receiver and the output of the UHF receiver are the same type of signal. As long as the IR receiver has power (5 volts) and ground, the output should work properly. You will need a piece of wire that is about 18 inches long. Solder one end of the wire to the output (V out) lead of the IR receiver. Make sure the wire doesn’t touch the lead next to it on the IR receiver! Pull about 1-inch of insulation off of the other end of wire, double it over, twist it, and put some solder on it to keep it from unraveling and to add a little strength. Put this end of the wire in the center (black wire) connector where the UHF antenna attaches to the main board. Be careful to insert all of the exposed jumper wire into the connector. If there is even one strand of the jumper wire in contact with the 12V pin beside it in the connector, it can fail anything in the circuit. Be sure to twist the jumper wire tightly and carefully insert it into the connector. You do not have to enable IR option in the software when using this method; you should turn-off IR if you manually enabled it. You should now (again) have IR capability.

This is basically the same modification as is used on the JVC HM-DSR100u D-VHS unit. Be sure to read the JVC D-VHS Upfit Instructions before performing this upfit. Visit the JVD D-VHS Modifications page to see the detailed JVC D-VHS instructions.